Trouble Shooting Case 580 Ck Hydra Level

1. Case 580 Ck Specs
2. Case 580 Ck Backhoe

This is COMPLETE Repair/ Service Manual for CASE 580CK Tractor Backhoe. These manuals are the same as the manuals given to official dealer's workshops, they contain detailed instructions and step by step diagrams for all workshop procedures everything from changing the plugs to electrical diagrams, torque settings, fluid capacities, manual is packed with all. (2500 for a very smooth running 1969 case 580ck) got so blinded by the deal that i forgot about the fact that i know enough about engines, but absolutely nothing about hydraulics. And this thing is gonna be way too big to be a self teaching project. So i need some help, even though some of it is going to be really embarasing to even ask for. Case 580 CK with a front end loader. The bucket is like brand new. Check the oil level in the hydraulic reservoir. It's on top of the torque tube. If there is no oil, or real low, the seal will probably need replaced, which you will need to split the tractor to do. CASE 580CK Digging problems - me or the machine? By dstankus in forum.

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Backhoe Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuilding

A tractor backhoe or front end loader is one of the handiest pieces of equipment used on the farm or on a construction site. These fine machines use a variety of hydraulic cylinders for lifting, digging, moving earth, digging ditches, and many other construction uses.
Occasionally these hydraulic cylinders need to be rebuilt because of leaking seals around the piston rod. Having a repair shop do this for you can run into quite a bit of money and also cause a long wait while the hydraulic cylinders are being rebuilt for you.
This article is intended to help you rebuild and repair the backhoe hydraulic cylinders on your particular machine. Even if you are not experienced in this type of hydraulic repair, this article will guide you through the steps needed to rebuild the backhoe hydraulic cylinders yourself.

Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild Kits

How To Obtain The Correct Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild Kit

Finding the correct hydraulic cylinder building kit is the first step in the rebuilding process. Some backhoes and front end loaders may use several different makes of hydraulic cylinders to perform the same function on your particular machine.

The Case 580C backhoe being repaired in this article is a prime example of such an instance and is therefore a perfect example for explaining the hydraulic cylinder rebuild process.
The Case 580C backhoe stabilizing jack being repaired listed two different rebuild kits for the hydraulic cylinder used to work the jacks. One has a one piece piston while the other used a two piece piston. It is very important to get the right hydraulic cylinder rebuild kit before starting the repair job. Once you disassemble the hydraulic cylinder you do not want to wait for the correct kit to arrive.
The correct part number is usually stamped into the gland of the hydraulic cylinder. Getting the correct rebuild kit should pose no problem if this part number can be found intact and readable. Even if you can only read some of the numbers the right rebuild kit can usually be found. You may find this kit online or through a tractor dealership.

Making The Gland Removal Tool

Gland Removal Tools

Safety is an important factor in rebuilding hydraulic cylinders, so be careful and do not hurry the job. Always take time to study the parts you remove if you don't have a schematic of the parts.

Take a photo if possible before each step to avoid confusion during the reassembly process.

After removing the yoke from the stabilizing jack stand by pulling the retaining pins, drop the jack to the ground and place a board or some other non metal object beneath the cylinder to keep it steady and to prevent dirt from getting on the parts.

It is important to not scratch the piston rod or other parts of the assembly. A marred piston rod will cause the new seals to wear quickly.

The gland on this particular hydraulic cylinder uses a common four hole system for removing and replacing the gland in the cylinder itself.

You may purchase a tool made just for this job, and there are a couple on this page, but since I have the tools and metal I prefer to make my own.

Each hydraulic cylinder, or tandem cylinders may use a different size gland removal tool which runs into quite a bit of money if you buy them.

By making your own you will eventually have a complete set. I make my gland removal tools from old plow points, case hardened bolts which fit the holes, and a piece of sturdy pipe.

An acetylene torch and arc welder is used to shape the tool and weld in the prongs made from the bolts.

Before attempting to remove the gland, loosen the hydraulic lines to allow fluid pressure to release and prevent a vacuum, making removal of the piston more difficult.

Removing piston and gland from piston rod

Disassembly of Piston And Gland

Case 580 Ck Specs

After completion of the gland removal tool, it is a simple matter of unscrewing the gland from the cylinder and removing the piston rod from the cylinder itself. Extending the hydraulic cylinder to its full length before removing the gland will save you the trouble of having to pull the piston rod very far to remove it. Use a sturdy point to attach the piston rod yoke to in order to unscrew the retaining bolt from the piston rod.

I normally use the original yoke connection if possible. Since a thread locking substance is used to keep the retaining bolt from vibrating loose (a very dangerous occurrence) it may be necessary to heat the end of the retaining bolt before you can get it to break free from the threads. Keep the torch flame away from the piston itself and concentrate it on the center of the bolt.
With the retaining bolt removed the piston and gland should separate from the piston rod easily. Place these pieces on a clean surface at a comfortable working height and check the seals from the hydraulic cylinder rebuild kit to ensure they are the correct size. It may be helpful to take digital photos as you go to ensure the correct replacement of the new seals.

Gland Removal tools

Removing and Installing the Seals

Installing The New Rebuild Kit

After removing the old seals be sure to clean the piston and gland as best you can before installing the new seals. Any grit or sand may damage the new seals. Be careful not to break the rubber or cellulose seals during reassembly. The old piston seal which installs in the gland end ny be inserted by using the old seal to drive it in. In this hydraulic cylinder the retaining bolt washer was the correct size for the purpose and worked well.
Do not be troubled if there are extra seals which appear to have no place in either the piston or gland. The same kit may be used for several models of hydraulic cylinder and extra parts are often included. Once this part of the process is completed you may reassemble the piston and gland on the piston rod in preparation for the retaining bolt. Clean the threads in the cylinder and lightly grease the piston and gland seals.
Clean the retaining bolt threads and the threads inside of the piston rod and then apply a thread locking substance to the threads. Torque the retaining bolt very tightly and insert the piston rod assembly into the cylinder. It may be necessary to tap the gland against the threads in order for the tool to begin engaging the threads. Tighten securely using a lever to ensure the gland is securely attached.

Completing The Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild

Insert the pins in the jack stand and retighten the hydraulic lines. Be sure to attach all retaining clips securely. Operate the cylinder until the air is removed and the hydraulic cylinder is working smoothly. Check for leaks and the job is done. This same technique is used for almost all types of hydraulic cylinders.
I hope my article helps you with your hydraulic cylinder rebuilding process. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have in the comment section at the bottom of the page. Good luck on your repairs and thanks for reading my article.

Finishing and testing

Case 580 Ck Backhoe

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

• Cylinder was sent to the hydraulic shop for new seals and it seems to be dropping, not holding the load, or bypassing. All the other cylinders are working properly and strong on this excavator. It is the the arm cylinder I'm speaking about. Bucket and boom cylinders are working fine. Could it be something else or did this shop mess up.

  Any comments....

• Steel ball and spring in swing cylinder pressure relief value

• On those case 580 c swing cylinder how do u know if the steel ball set right in seat it doesn't set on spring to install thanks

• on 580k backhoe the main boom cylinder, I can get the bolt loose, is there a lock screw on the bolt?

• Thanks Randy,

  I realize I was rattling off at the mouth so I wasn't very clear. Thanks for your response.

  #1

  I ordered another set of seals. Now is the time, rather than when I get it down to my property 190 miles from my shop. That is why I am replacing the rod on the bucket cylinder even though it is not leaking.

  # 2

  The inside of the gland nut is very rusty. I put it in my sonic cleaner, to get as much of the grease, disintegrated seals and other gunk out as I could. I am afraid that if I don't do a good job of cleaning that all out that the new seals will not last long.

  The problem is that getting inside the gland nut to clean it out properly will be non trivial. I think a Dremel tool with a wire brush could probably work OK, but still hard to do right. I am a little concerned about removing too much material and causing a different source for a leak. I know this last concern just means be careful and don't be stupid.

  I have read about using electrolysis to remove rust, but have never done it. (Google it if you are interested) This seems like a perfect application for the technique. Since you did not know what I was talking about you probably have no opinion on using it.

  The remaining question that you could answer is how valid my concern is about getting all the rust off before I put it back together?

  Another question I did not ask before is if you can confirm how the seals go back into the gland nut. there are two seals that have a little lip and one that does not. the thin one goes to the back of the gland nut with the little lip facing backward. The inner seals were completely deteriorated and came out as mushy pieces. I think the bigger one with the lip comes next and faces backward. The final one is flat except that it has a little half round notch on one side. If I can't find anything definitive, I intend to put it with the notch facing backward on the front side of the second seal from the back.

• Hi Randy,

  I'm trying to get a mid-80's era former military back hoe / front end loader back in working condition. The official name is a FLU 419 SEE. The back hoe part is a Case 580 D. So your article was a good find.

  There was a bit of chrome missing on the bucket cylinder, and the right dipper cylinder was leaking like a sieve. I have a new rod for the bucket cylinder, and the seal kit for it. I did not find the locking bolt on the bucket cylinder and had to drill it out when the head twisted off. I will need to drill and tap a replacement. Other than that the bucket cylinder came apart fairly easily and the gland nut moves easily on it.

  The dipper gland nut would not move so after I removed the piston bolt I screwed it back into the cylinder and winched it apart. All the seals in the gland nut just crumbled as I took them out, so I don't have the luxury of seeing how they faced as I pulled them out.

  Long introduction (sorry) I have a few questions you might be able to help me with.

  1.) Should I go ahead and redo the other boom cylinder while I am at it or leave well enough alone?

  2.) The inside of the gland nut on the dipper cylinder has a lot of rust. I am weighing my options on how best to remove it. I have been thinking about using electrolysis because it is pretty tight inside the gland nut for other methods. I think the gland nut is zinc plated (not chrome) so it is probably safe to do it. The other idea is buying a Dremel tool or something similar and a wire brush. Do you have any opinion on this, and how critical to seal longevity is getting all the rust out.

  3.) Is the little tool to install the inner seals worth the cost.

  4.) when I drill and tap the locking screw on the bucket cylinder should I just drill a larger hole in the original, or line the original hole up and then drill & tap for a 1/8' screw at a different location.

  I don't expect you to have answers to all this, but any you do have will be helpful.

  Thanks in advance.

• My older model 580k backhoe does not want to go forward when cold

  It does reverse ok.

• Nice article, you make it look easier than it looks. I'm going give it a shot.

• Hello guys, I was looking for information about the length of time that it takes to do an in frame engine rebuild of a case 580 be back home in orde hello guys, I was looking for information about the links of time that it takes to do an in frame engine rebuild of a case 580 B backhoe Loader. Hope you can help me. My email address is blairburden55@gmail. Com

• I had a cylinder rebuilt by my local tractor shop, now the rod needs to be spun 90 degrees so the fitting will connect at the end. It doesn't seem to spin on it's own, is there a way I can do this without waiting to go to town on Monday?

• i have a problem with my tlb 580 its back hole is not working while the front is good and the oil level is good

• Have a boom cylinder on 555 Ford backhoe. Piston will return all but last half inch, and will not hold up without pressure on control lever...any ideas on my problem!? Thanks in advance.

• If needed, What grit size sandpaper is best for using when rebuilding a hydraulic cylinder on John Deere backhoe?

• Hi, the stick cylinder on my 580 Case has bottomed out, can I get the cylinder moving again without taking it apart?, and will there be any damage?, thank you.

• Have a 580 k hoe. Trying to get the gland nut off of dipper cylinder Made a tool & even with a long bar it will not budge !

• My clutch just all of a sudden went out how do i replace that. I have no idea where to start its a case 580 super l 4x4 series 1machine

• I have a 580 case. seems all parts move except the machine itself.

  is there a frozen filter or something.

• I have a case backhoe when I put brake on to stop it the brake won't release after removei g my foot from petal what can it be

• I have an old Case 320 backhoe, circa 1950. The bucket cylinder is leaking where the rod passes through the gland. I've removed the cylinder from the machine, and removed the 4 cylinder tie rods which were fastened to the glands with 1/2-20 hex nuts. The cylinder glands are pressed into the cylinder bore and sealed to the bore with o rings. The tie rods hold the glands in place. The glands are not threaded. I was able to pull the rear gland (the end without which the rod passes through) off the end of the cylinder by holding the rear gland with a chain fastened to a tree, then pulling on the rod with a tractor. The front gland and rod stayed fastened to the cylinder. Now I am stumped with how to get the front gland off. Do you have any suggestions on how I should proceed?

• I am putting my clutch back in my 580c backhoe and it's not going in correctly, any suggestions?

• Look at your pic that says piston with new seals its the one in the middle that im having issues with

• I have the same piston gland as the one shown up there its the seal in the middle that has another seal under it, but the one im having problems with is the one that looks like wL's laying on the side that are joined together I don't really know how to describe it

• Hey Im actually changing out the seals in mine as I type but im having problems trying to figure out how to change the seal that's in the center of the piston the one that's pre cut (looks like a puzzle piece) it keeps breaking when I try to put the new one on what am I doing wrong and how do I get the SOB on this makes my 2nd seal for the center, and from what I can tell my piston doesn't break apart to put it on that way. (1983 Case 580D)

• Randy, I have a Case 580C with power shuttle I have an oil leak running out of the torque converter cover. I replaced the front seal on the power shuttle but it still leaks. Also when in high gear it will hardly pull we installed new power shuttle kit but still pulls down going up a rise. Do you have any suggestions. (Need Help)

• Randy, as a commenter put it, a repair manual probably couldn’t have stated it better. We have a 1973 Ford with backhoe and front end loader, I forget the model, but it is homogonous. When we bought it, Mr. B had to replace all the hydraulic hoses on it. We bought it, sight unseen, to dig up and repair our underground house (can’t link to my hub, of course, but there are some photos of the backhoe working from the side). Mr. B said it was too big and heavy to risk putting on top of our house, and I urged him to sell it and buy a smaller one. But alas, we’ve had it for 10 years and the house still hasn’t been dug up and still leaks. It now needs a brake job, but Mr. B has knee replacement surgery pending. We may have to sell it as is because his days of playing with the backhoe may be over. Voted you up and useful.

• Randy...... like you I'm late getting back on here. I rebuilt my hoe boom cylinder the same day I first wrote on this page. All went great. I used a 36' pipe wrench to back off the gland. It went really good too. just have to be very careful not to slip off that narrow edge of the gland nut. thanks again for the help.

• Thanks for the fast response Randy. I will let you know how my seal replacement goes. I'm hoping my good fortune or mistakes will help others who visit your page. I also want to mention I read the blogs about your father and the other WWII vets. There are still a few around ( saw a pic of a guy yesterday on the news that survived the Arizona). I wish alot more of us appreciated those men and women that served, perished and survived that time. We are so previliged to have all that their sacrifices have given us. I can only imagine your pride of your father. Great stuff. By the looks of the help you offer here it looks like he raised a good kid. Thanks amigo.... now off to the hoe!

• Randy...... first off thanks for such a great web page and all the help you are handing out to us equipment guys. i have a 1984 case 580se and have the kit I got off ebay to redo boom cylinder seals. Do you think i can do it without a schematic of proper assembly? kit did not have one. Also is it safe to unscrew gland with large pipe wrench? thanks in advancxe for any help... TD

• Hey guys! Great post-article, I don't have the Case(as pictured here,wish Idid) I do have a Massey Ferg 50A tractor...what a tank! Up to this time I've sent out the cyl to be rebuilt. However now , I may tackle this on my own! OK that said, everybody sittin' down?

  I also have a Massey Ferg 20hp compact tractor. It was bare so I bought a Yanmar with a front end loader and a PTO run backhoe! I transferred those two things to this Massey...works great! sold the Yanmar bare with finish mower! Ok that's the history now the fun part. I've got NO IDEA what the make of my backhoe is? I can't find plates or names anywhere!

  All I want to do is rebuild a ...looks like a 2 inch cyl for the boom. Will there be a number on that cyl? if so where do I look with all that paint? Will that help me get parts? If not I don't mind takin' apart first and layin' all the parts in order...and messure them for the fit of seals...rings...what have you. Is there any site that will sell by measurement? Many times I've gone to Napa with seals and u-joints off ole' vehicles and we messure it right up!????

  I did notice there are a few sites...I could..might be able to just buy the whole cyl between 1-2 bills...but I am a hands on kinda guy...I think the small cyl would be a great way to get my feet wet...

  The biggest challenge I find is findin' the parts, I just think it is the best...to rebuild or fix something vs cave in to this 'throw away market' we have...

  Thanks, any ideas here appreciated! MFman!

• How did I miss all of these how to hubs? They are brilliant. That's the gig here, right? You should be killing it with this one. I worked for a landscaping company for 6 months once (between jobs, freelance work scarce). The owner got mad when I tore up his backhoe clearing traveler palms (grow everywhere as well as along underground) and gnarly junk like that from a pristine piece of scrub habitat. It looks like it needs to be cleared and developed to Yankees.

  We were clearing it by hand with an illegal crew. I saved him two days of illegal labor pay before I broke the thing. It was the first time I ever used one. They left it at the site and one of the crew knew how to start it without the key (no problemo, amigo). He showed me how to work the levers , but refused to do it himself. He wasn't as dumb as I look. I did okay until my borderline dyslexia caught up with me.

  On the upside, the Mexicans got a good laugh. I wish I had this hub. He would have never known. But then, I might still be trimming palms.

• Hi Randy, Finally got the pin out of stabilizer cylinder. Tried a new rosebud heating torch and heated every thing as best we could. Beat with sledge , it didn't budge . Mechanic friend said next step was to cut it out with torch, so I took it to local blacksmith to do that. Did good job. Buuut on the way home in fast road gear the front 4x4 drive shaft came all apart. Now front stub shaft ,pinion on inside,has side play and ruined seal. Needs new bearings. Parts dealer printed picture and said it should just pull out. It doesn't. Just started on this part ,so will try something else after dinner.Toys are expensive. Thanks for your input. Bill

• Hey Randy, I called my friend just now to clarify what to heat, yoke or pin. He says heat yoke red hot. beat with sledge. Wont break. If it doesn't come out I will just keep adding oil. He works on these all the time and I trust him completely. Thanks for your input. I will post later when have something. I'm 80 years old and kind of take it slow sometimes. Bill

• Randy, Thanks for quick response. After I posted to you I called a friend who is a cat and case mechanic, he says this is common and to heat it red hot. Do not know if he meant yoke or pin. will find out . I will certainly let you know. 15 deg. out now so I will postpone job for warmer weather.Breaking the yoke freaks me out. As my father said ,I am working in shade tree garage . Stay Tuned Bill

• ON CASE 580K HAVING TROUBLE GETTING PIN OUT OF STABILIZER CYLINDER. The one on end . cylinder to foot. Heat it,beat it or press it? Bill

  .

• I had the cyl on my front end loader rebuilt (backhoe)Installed it but my bucket will not come all the way down to the ground it misses by 8 inches. What would cause this. Air? and if so how do I bleed it out?

• Hi Randy, First off, I would like to commend you on such an awesome explanation of seal rebuild. I doubt there is a manual in exsistance that could do a better job of explaning this special task. Secondly, I salute you and your father for serving under a legend like Patton and only you and God know and appreciate what you have learned from such a great person/leader like your father. WOW, D-day. I am retired military and truly appreciate what your father did for me. Lastly, I just purchased a Case 580SE Construction King which I am told is 1985. I am looking at doing some repinning, at least one seal repair and some other things to tighten up the old machine. It runs like a top, and performs great, just like me, old and needs a little tweeking. Thanks again Randy, you are awesome, Doug

• Hi, thank you for your article. I disassembled a Case 1845C bucket cylinder and found the inner U-seal in the gland was very difficult to remove. Once removed, I do not see how the new U-seal should be inserted into the middle of the gland since both ends of the gland are much smaller than the seal itself. I do not want to damage the new seal, do you know a proper way to insert it? Thank You

• Well, what can i say. I just bought a 2nd hand super l case machine 2 months ago and today i got the boom hydraulic gland off few cm from its track. I'm cracking my head to find a tool to tighten it up and thanks god I find this page about making my own DIY set. Thank to you Randy Godwin for your article. It is very helpful and easy to understand. Those pictures are brilliant! It's a real pleasure to have people like you over the internet. Many thanks.

• Men, like our fathers are what made this country great, and strong. We need to carry on that iron-hard tradition of integrity, ethics, and quality!

  I knew there was something solid about your character, just from reading your comments in the forums.

• My Dad had a land clearing business, and we did all of our own repairs. When I was 10 he put a rod and +lead in my hand, had me learn to weld up those front idlers for the tracks on the Cat doziers. The East Texas sand really wears out the parts.

  We single handed replaced a hydrolic clutch in a D-8 Cat on Thanksgiving day when I was 13. It was freezing cold, but that's just the way my Pop was, and I'm glad I was raised that way because everything now is a piece of cake.

  Thanks for sharing this information! It really brings back memories!